Before you cook
The caramel is meant to go past golden into a deep amber that smells faintly of smoke, right at the edge of burnt. Pull it too early and the dish stays merely sweet.
Add liquid to the hot caramel carefully and from a distance. It spits and hardens instantly on contact, which is completely normal and settles once it heats through.
Method
Heat the sugar alone in a dry, heavy pot without stirring it.
Swirl the pot occasionally as it melts and darkens towards amber.
Push it until it smells faintly of smoke, right at the edge of burning.
Carefully pour in a splash of the water, standing well back as it spits.
Stir until the hardened caramel dissolves back into a smooth liquid.
Warm the oil separately and fry the shallots until soft and fragrant.
Add the shallots and remaining water to the caramel and bring to a simmer.
Stir in the daliya and fish sauce, coating the grain in the liquid.
Cover and simmer for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender.
Finish with black pepper and roasted sesame seeds, then serve warm.
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