Before you cook
The whole dish hinges on squeezing the spinach properly dry after blanching. Wet spinach dilutes the sauce and the dish turns watery on the plate.
Blanch briefly and shock immediately in ice water. That stops the cooking and is what keeps the green colour vivid rather than dull.
Method
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt it.
Prepare a bowl of ice water alongside the stove before you start.
Blanch the spinach for exactly thirty seconds, no longer.
Lift it straight into the ice water to stop the cooking sharply.
Once fully cold, squeeze the spinach hard in your fists to remove water.
Squeeze again from a different angle, because a first pass never gets it all.
Grind most of the sesame seeds to a coarse, oily paste in a mortar.
Mix in the soy sauce, sugar, mirin and sesame oil until smooth.
Cut the squeezed spinach into short lengths and toss with the sauce.
Scatter the remaining whole seeds over the top and serve at room temperature.
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