Before you cook
Aglio e olio lives or dies on two things: garlic that turns pale gold rather than brown, and enough starchy water to bind oil into a sauce.
Emmer pasta has a shorter window between firm and soft than refined durum, so pull it early and let it finish in the pan.
Method
Bring four litres of water to a rolling boil and salt it heavily.
Slice the garlic thinly and lengthways so that it colours evenly rather than catching.
Add the pasta and set a timer for two minutes under the packet time.
Warm the oil with the garlic and chillies in a wide pan over the lowest heat.
Cook until the garlic is pale gold, then pull the pan off the heat entirely.
Reserve a full cup of the starchy cooking water before you drain anything.
Drain the pasta while the centre still gives a distinct, firm bite.
Return the pan to low heat, add the pasta and a splash of the reserved water.
Toss hard until the oil and water emulsify into a sauce that coats every strand.
Finish off the heat with parsley, sesame seeds and pepper, then serve at once.
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